The Ssese Islands are an archipelago of 84 islands in the northwestern part of Lake Victoria, Africa’s largest lake, the world’s largest tropical lake, the world’s second-largest fresh water lake and the world’s 9th-largest continental lake.
Bugala is the largest of the 84 islands of Ssese and is located approximately 60 kilometers across water from Entebbe. Among its neighbours are islands like Bubeke, Bubembe, Bufumira, Bugaba, Bukasa, Buyova, Funve and Serinya.
Across the Koome Channel is another group of the Ssese islands with Koome Island as the largest with others including Damba, Koome and Luwaji. About 43 of the islands are inhabited and vary in size from less than 10,000 square meters (2.5 acres), to over 40 kilometers in length for Bugala.
Ssese derives its name from the famous Ssese tree, believed to have supernatural powers and is worshipped by the natives of the area, the Basese, a small tribe of people nearing extinction. Legend has it that the ancestors of the Basese were a very powerful lot with super natural powers. So powerful were their powers that the earlier kings of Buganda (Kabakas) consulted the kings of Ssese for powers to rule.
The Kabaka would visit Luggo Forest on Bugala Island, and there would be given a specter, the instrument of power, locally called the Damula. Presently, Luggo Forest is more known as Damula forest rather than by its original name. What remains of the forest is still preserved for the purpose of getting the specter which the Kabaka hands to his choice of a Katikiiro (Prime minister).
The extinction of the Basese is caused by migration of people from other parts of the country to the islands, but also because many of the natives migrated from the island after the onset of tsetse flies that caused an outbreak of sleeping sickness, killing many and displacing others in the early 1900’s.
The famous Ssese tree is located in Mugoye village approximately 18kms away from Kalangala Town also on Bugala Island.
Prominent on Bugala is the Lutoboka Bay. The bay is host to 8 of Kalangala’s biggest luxury hotels, a near haven for tourists. Victoria Resort is located on the extreme end of the peer where the ship from Entebbe docks. There are also Ssese Habitat resort, Kalangala Pearl resort, Ssese Islands Beach Hotel, Panorama resort, Mirembe Resort and Brovad Beach hotel. The beach is an open bay where visitors can walk from one end to another, this 30-minute beach walk is a famous tourist activity.
The Speke Forts are another tourist attraction on Bugala. Also located in Lutoboka, the forts were built by famous explorer John Speke, who is most known for discovering the source of River Nile on Lake Victoria.
One kilometer away from Kalangala in another direction is Mwena landing site which hosts fishing communities. Most visitors to the landing site are from Kasenyi Landing site in Entebbe on the mainland, Bukasa, Mazinga and Bunyana islands.
Approximately 26kms away in a different direction is Mulabana landing Site which hosts visitors from Lambu in Masaka District and others from neighbouring Mazinga Island.
The busiest site is Bugoma which receives visitors from Nyendo in Masaka. In Bugoma the MV Pearl and MV Ssese make 6 trips to and from Nyendo every day. A ferry ride is approximately 30-45 minutes, making it easy to make several trips in contrast to the 3-hour Entebbe-Lutoboka trip.
Culturally, it is taboo to have sheep on the islands. It is believed that if anyone carried a sheep or any product of sheep on them, lightning will strike them or the area in which the person is on the islands. This tradition stems from history.
Legend has it that Nakibinge, a king of Buganda during the fierce war between Buganda and Bunyoro, Uganda’s largest kingdoms, came to Ssese and asked then king of Ssese, Wanema for his son Kyobe Omubazi to fight for Buganda. Wanema at that time asked for a prince from Buganda as collateral for his son.
Nakibinge returned to Buganda and sent his servant Kalyesubula with one of the princes. As Wanema handed over Kyobe to Kalyesubula, he instructed that during the war, Kyobe should never be exposed to any woman and should never be allowed to interact or sleep with a woman.
During the war, however, Kalyesubula was pleased in one of the battles where they captured several beautiful girls from Bunyoro. As a reward, Kalyesubula allowed one of the girls to sleep with Kyobe, who the Baganda had renamed Kibuuka Omumbale because he fought while flying.
After that night, the girl reportedly returned to her tribe mates, to whom she revealed Kibuuka’s fighting secret. It is said the fighters from Bunyoro used this revelation to capture Kibuuka and killed him as he landed on a tree.
Upon receiving news of his son’s death, Wanema cursed and lightning struck every existing sheep, on the islands. Since then, it is believed that all sheep, which is Kalyesubula’s totem, are stricken by lightning when they set foot on the islands.
Most Buganda traditional gods are from the islands of Ssese. The traditional name of Lake Victoria, Nalubaale, stems from the gods (Lubaale).
Nagadya, the mother of Kibuuka Omumbale, who today is a famous god among traditionalists in Buganda comes from Ssese as does his father Wanema, also the father of Mukasa, the god of the lakes, Musisi the god of earthquakes, and Wamala.
Nanziri Falls on Bukasa one of the 84 islands of Kalangala District are believed to have mysterious powers. It is believed the falls, located in Bubeke, unlike all others do not draw their water from a river but rather from a stream powered by Nanziri herself.
From Mwena Landing Site, a boat ride takes tourists to Namirembe Landing Site on Bukasa. This is also where Wanema’s shrine is located.
Cultural rituals are performed at the falls and a small distance away at the mesmerizing caves.
It is said that Wanema, meaning the lame one, was originally called Ssemusulo. He is said to have been bitten by a dog on the leg which made him lame. His father Musisi was very angry with the dog and its owner Wamala.
This anger caused the shaking of the earth, (earthquakes). To escape his grandfather’s wrath, Wamala moved to Buganda with his pot but when he arrived the earthquake caused his pot to break, forming Lake Wamala.
Nsiirwe Island is famous for hundreds of varieties of birds which draw tourists from across the globe to come and watch.
While the mesmerizing ridges and caves are another fascinating site in Kalangala located on Bujaana Island.
All the islands of Ssese are famous for the immense forest cover. With 50% of the 468.3 sq kms of land on the islands being forests. A big chunk of these forests have been taken over by Palm oil producers BIDCO who grow oil palms. A large proportion of Kalangala’s population is also employed as out growers of oil palm. Agro tourism is very popular. Hundreds of tourists go on forest walks everyday on the islands.
The hills and valleys of Mazinga Island are a breathtaking adventure. When one descends into a valley, they are surrounded by water on all sides, giving the feeling of being on a real island unlike most other places where water can only be seen on one side, depending where one is standing.
